miss voyager : sweet old sydney (part one)
If Sydney was a woman, she’d be downright dirty, sexy as hell and loved by all who met her. As our biggest and oldest city, Sydney is packed with never-ending excitement that not even a GFC can dampen. Aptly described by lonely planet as an “ambitious marketplace for the soul, where everything goes and usually everything does” this is a place where, as the saying goes, only the tough survive.
Sydney’s greatest quality is that there’s always more to discover. Much like London or Berlin, it’s constantly growing and attracts folk who love to live in the fast lane. A good chunk of our financial wealth and cultural heritage abide there, which is unsurprising considering its history. Discovered by James Cook in 1788 and founded by Arthur Phillips shortly after, the settlement was originally christened “New Albion”. No one but Phillips thought this was catchy enough though and they nicknamed it Sydney after Thomas Townshend, Lord Sydney, a forward thinking man who was the Nelson Mandela of his time.
The colony didn’t get off to a great start and problems abounded in the first few years. Starvation, drought, disease and Isolation all took their toll and the fact that none of the convicts possessed any farming skills didn’t help either.
After the Rum rebellion in 1808 when the NSW Corps (known as the Rum Corp for their monopoly on the importation of alcohol) ousted Governor William Bligh and established a brief period of military rule, the motherland sent Lachlan Macquarie to sort things out in 1810.
As the last aristocratic Governor of NSW, Macquarie was a bit of a bad arse and essentially responsible for Sydney’s transformation from suffering colony to the city it is today. He wasted no time in building public works, a bank, churches and charitable institutions. He sought good relations with the local aboriginals and, against serious opposition, decreed that emancipated convicts should be treated the same as free settlers. From that point onwards, it was only a question of time and growth.
The growth part came, as many things do, during the gold rushes of the mid-19th century. After gold was discovered in Bathurst in 1851, immigrant miners began pouring into Sydney from all over the globe, catapulting the population from 39,000 to 200,000 just twenty years later. When gold was discovered down in Victoria, many new residents started moving away, starting the great Sydney-Melbourne rivalry that escalated as Australia moved towards Federation. Both lobbied to be the capital city and the authorities got so sick of their bickering that they established Canberra instead!
This period was a great time for Sydney. Celebrated humanitarian Caroline Chisholm worked to improve the life of poor women immigrants, finding work and establishing a shelter. Governor Macquarie founded the Royal Botanic Gardens and Hyde Park. The first Royal Sydney Easter Show opened in 1823, with the Sydney Morning Herald following in 1831 and University of Sydney shortly after in 1850. The QVB was completed in 1898 on the site of the old Sydney markets and The Bulletin magazine started up, helping writers such as Henry Lawson, Banjo Patterson and Miles Franklin find fame.
Despite the Great Depression and both world wars hitting Sydney hard, the city bounced back, opening the Harbour Bridge in 1932. Our most famous landmark, the Opera House, finally opened in 1973, becoming an Aussie icon to rival Uluru. Together with the Sydney push, the city cemented its reputation as a place for movers and shakers. Germaine Greer and Clive James both rose to fame and Paul Hogan went from local painter to global movie star in 1986 with Crocodile Dundee. Since then, the city has nurtured the careers of Mel Gibson, Judy Davis, Geoffrey Rush, Cate Blanchett, Nicole Kidman and Russell Crowe.
Below are some of the highlights of Sydney, for visitors and residents alike.
Balmain Beach
A peaceful haven not far from Central, Balmain Beach is the perfect place for a picnic, a bottle of red, a good book and a few friends. Pick up a coffee at any of the trendy shops that hug the wharf but don’t bother coming if you’re a surfer, try Freshwater instead.
Sydney Royal Easter Show
A carnival to put Canberra’s to shame, this year the show boasts a rodeo, the RAS Stockmen’s ride, street and sideshow artists, gourmet food and the first 360 degree aerial backflip in Australian history with the showtime freestyle motox. On from 5 – 18th April at the Sydney Showground, check out their website for more info!
Pino’s Restaurant
Willoughby Road, Crow’s Nest
Opened in 1973, Pino’s still serve the best Italian food in Sydney. Yes, Crow’s Nest is a pain to get to without a car, but the trek is totally worth it.
Golden Fang
Don’t let the lack of decor fool you, this place is a little taste of Beijing all on its own. Every local worth their salt comes here for the cheapest and tastiest Asian food in town. Find it at the corner of King and Parramatta Street, conveniently next to the Lansdowne hotel. Just don’t leave without trying the dumplings!
Pyrmont Fish Markets
Attention all aficionados! Welcome to paradise and the finest place in all Sydney to grab fresh seafood. It’s usually packed, especially on the weekends, so bring a picnic or fight the locals for somewhere to sit. Prawn-peeling skills and sunnies essential. Corner of Bank Street and Pyrmont Bridge Road in Pyrmont.
And that’s just the beginning – stay tuned for part two of our trip through Sydney, coming soon!
By Ilana Pender-Rose
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